A Journey Through Time: Six Years with the Calibre 321 Speedmaster
Initial Impressions and Enduring Appeal of the Calibre 321 Speedmaster
A recent inquiry from a reader prompted this reflection on my long-term ownership experience with the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321. Specifically, the reader was interested in my continued satisfaction with the reference 311.30.40.30.01.001 and how frequently it is worn compared to the stainless-steel Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, which debuted a year later in 2021. After six years, my perspective on this particular Speedmaster has solidified considerably.
The Legacy and Reintroduction of the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Movement
The Speedmaster Calibre 321 made its notable return on the inaugural Tuesday of 2020, marking the second Speedmaster iteration to incorporate this esteemed movement. Its initial re-release in 2019 was within a platinum Speedmaster Professional, distinguished by an onyx dial and meteorite subdials. The 2020 steel version, however, was particularly significant as it brought the Calibre 321 movement back into a steel case for the first time since the late 1960s, a move that resonated deeply with Speedmaster aficionados. Rather than reiterating previously published information, this review focuses on my personal experience with the watch over the past six years. Detailed introductory articles, early reviews, and a one-year ownership follow-up are readily available for those seeking more background.
Following the introduction of the Speedmaster Apollo IX versions, which featured the new Calibre 3861, Omega also launched another highly anticipated model in 2020: the Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary. Both the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and the Silver Snoopy Award were produced in limited quantities, although not as explicitly "limited edition" models, and both remain in production today. The Silver Snoopy Award is manufactured on Omega’s standard production lines, while the Calibre 321 is meticulously assembled by hand in a specialized atelier, with each watch being entirely crafted by a single watchmaker. The unique aspects that distinguish the Calibre 321 from other Speedmaster Professional models have been detailed in previous discussions.
Personal Wearability: A Favorite Among Speedmasters
Over the six years of ownership, I have found that my Calibre 321 Speedmaster is among my most frequently worn timepieces. The only Speedmaster that sees more wrist time is my 2019 Apollo XI 18K Moonshine gold model. While I initially intended the gold watch for special events, my emotional connection to it led me to wear it far more often, embracing the philosophy that life is too short not to enjoy such a treasured item. My regular Moonwatch, with its Hesalite crystal and Calibre 3861, also gets consistent wear. However, to directly answer the reader's question, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 indeed surpasses the modern Speedmaster Professional Calibre 3861 in terms of wrist time.
Interestingly, I must confess a preference for the 42mm asymmetrical case of the Speedmaster Professional over the 39.6mm straight-lug case of the Calibre 321. I also appreciate the crown guards on the Professional case and find its lyre lugs more aesthetically pleasing than the straight ones. In a recent podcast, I mentioned that my ideal Speedmaster would essentially be the regular Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, featuring a Hesalite crystal and housing the Calibre 321 movement. I would also subtly refine the dial printing of the current 42mm Moonwatch to align more closely with the Speedmaster Calibre 321. The dial of the 321 offers a richer level of detail due to its galvanic finish, as opposed to the varnished dial of the standard modern Moonwatch. Therefore, I would certainly opt for the same galvanic treatment found on the contemporary 321 model.
The Distinctive Flat-Link Bracelet
When discussing the Calibre 321 Speedy, its bracelet often comes up in conversation. I particularly appreciate the flat-link bracelet, which draws inspiration from the classic 1039 and 7077 references. The primary drawback of this bracelet is the absence of a micro-adjustment system in its clasp. While this isn't an issue for me in my climate, I can see how it would be a crucial feature for those living in regions with significant temperature fluctuations. Omega has executed the finish of this bracelet beautifully. Though some might confuse it with the bracelet found on the Speedmaster FOiS, it is distinctly different. The 321's bracelet boasts flatter surfaces and a superior finish. The "Nixon" bracelet is undeniably well-designed and comfortable, but given the choice, I would still select the flat-link, despite its lack of micro-adjustment.
The Heart of the Watch: Calibre 321 Movement and its Quirks
The Calibre 321 movement is, without a doubt, the centerpiece of this watch. Its reintroduction in 2019, allowing Omega to once again incorporate it into their timepieces, was a momentous occasion. This movement is visually stunning, and its return to a modern Omega Speedmaster was a long-held desire of mine. Years ago, during a meeting with Omega, I inquired about the possibility of the movement's return, only to be told it was unlikely due to Breguet holding the usage rights. However, as we now know, circumstances evolved significantly.
I am delighted that Omega and Breguet resolved the situation, enabling this incredible movement to once again grace one of the most iconic chronograph watches. It's worth noting that the movement lacks Master Chronometer certification, or even a standard COSC certification. While extreme accuracy isn't my top priority when buying a watch, I did encounter magnetism issues twice. I observed the watch's accuracy deviating by 25 seconds a day, which is excessive even for a non-chronometer certified watch. On both occasions, I brought it in for service, where magnetism was quickly identified as the cause. Demagnetizing a watch is a routine and straightforward procedure for any service center, and both instances were covered under warranty.
The Apex of Modern Speedmasters
For me, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 represents the zenith of modern Omega Speedmaster offerings in steel. This holds true despite some practical limitations, such as its modest water resistance and the absence of Master Chronometer certification. The watch presents a distinctly different aesthetic and wearing experience compared to the contemporary Speedmaster Professional. It features more pronounced details on its dial and hands, an exquisitely crafted column-wheel chronograph movement, and an exceptional level of finish on both the case and bracelet.
The overall impression is one of heightened luxury, aligning perfectly with Omega's vision for this timepiece, a sentiment reflected in its price. At €17,100 (including VAT), it commands twice the price of the 42mm Speedmaster Professional. If the distinctions between these two models are not immediately apparent to you, opting for the Professional would be a more practical choice. However, for those who appreciate the subtle yet significant details and the superior craftsmanship of the Speedmaster Calibre 321, it presents a compelling proposition. Alternatively, one might consider acquiring a vintage Omega Speedmaster 105.003 in pristine condition. This contemporary model serves as a magnificent homage, blending elements from both the historic 105.003 and Omega's current watchmaking expertise.
Considering a Repeat Purchase
When I initially acquired the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 2020, its retail price was CHF 13,000 / €13,300 (including VAT). Six years later, the price has risen considerably to €17,100 (including VAT). Would I make the same purchase today? If my financial circumstances allowed for such an expenditure on a watch, my answer would be an unequivocal yes. Beyond the "Speedy Tuesday" models we collaborated on with Omega, I consider the Calibre 321 and the gold Moonshine Apollo 11 watches to be the crown jewels of my Speedmaster collection. My colleague Dave recently added a pre-owned Speedmaster Calibre 321 to his own collection, a pathway well worth exploring for those operating within a more constrained budget. Personally, I derive immense satisfaction from reflecting on six years of enjoyment with my 321.
Here's to many more years of happy ownership!