GMBH: Fashion as a Mirror to Society, Bridging Past Aesthetics with Present Realities
The Weight of Reality: From Aesthetic Privilege to Urgent Commentary
Designers Serhat Işık and Benjamin Huseby of GMBH candidly acknowledged the immense self-imposed pressure they experience before presenting their collections. While their brand has always carried a political undertone, they previously allowed themselves the luxury of focusing solely on creating beautiful fashion, as seen in their "Untitled" collection of winter 2023, which celebrated pink hues and bows. However, the current global climate has shifted their perspective. Işık emphasized that remaining silent is no longer an option, stating that stepping out into the world means confronting harsh realities. Huseby's T-shirt, emblazoned with "Friedensangst" (Fear of Peace) – a German financial term satirizing defense industry shareholders' anxieties over peace agreements – underscored this sentiment, highlighting the uncomfortable entanglement of economics and conflict.
Finding Beauty Amidst the Darkness: A Return to Berlin's Transgressive Spirit
In what they describe as the most politically charged era since GMBH's inception, the design duo adheres to a core philosophy: discovering beauty even in challenging times. This guiding principle led them back to the vibrant and transgressive Berlin club scene of the 1980s. While revisiting their aesthetic roots, the collection subtly reinterpreted body-sculpting and power-infusing silhouettes. This season introduced surprising soft elements, including elegantly flowing pants with draped panels, subtle peplums on jackets, and gracefully draped faux fur coats, adding a layer of refinement to the runway. These softer details found their counterpoint in the brand's signature thigh-high, square-toed boots with front zippers, boxer-waistband trousers, and adaptable pieces like faux fur collars and scarves, showcasing a dynamic interplay of strength and fragility.
A Decade of Design: Political Identity and Future Trajectories
The collection overall presented a compelling blend of roughness and delicacy, offering a retrospective glance at Berlin's diverse history and GMBH's decade-long journey. Speculation now turns to their upcoming 10th-anniversary show in the summer: will it mark a definitive stylistic evolution? The designers suggest that future directions will largely be dictated by prevailing political conditions. They poignantly noted that much of the pressure they face stems from their identities as Muslim immigrants or the children of Muslim immigrants, a political dimension they actively embrace. They affirmed their commitment to discussing these aspects, recognizing it as a fundamental reason for GMBH's founding. With a blend of seriousness and a hint of defiance, they declared their readiness to accept any consequences that might arise from their outspoken approach.