Doni Nahmias, the visionary behind the Nahmias menswear brand, unveiled his latest collection, aptly named "Wipeout," drawing inspiration from the dynamic world of surf and skate culture. This new offering, presented at an off-calendar show in Paris, embodies the exhilarating spirit of near-conquest and the raw energy associated with extreme sports. The collection signifies Nahmias's robust return to the Parisian runway after a three-year hiatus, marking a pivotal moment for the independent Californian designer.
The "Wipeout" collection, consisting of 39 distinct looks, is a vibrant homage to Californian aesthetics, infused with Nahmias's signature innovative approach. Key pieces include denim adorned with intricate beadwork that mimics water splashes, sophisticated gray camouflage trousers crafted from suede, and generously proportioned swim trunks featuring Hawaiian surf prints, also rendered in luxurious suede. Nahmias's intention was to elevate the essence of surfing style into high fashion, offering a fresh perspective on casual wear.
Beyond the surf and skate influences, the collection also incorporates elements of refined tailoring. Trousers, for instance, are reimagined with waistbands reminiscent of vintage swim trunks and bottom cords, allowing them to be stylishly tucked into socks. This inventive fusion, described by fashion editor Gro Curtis as if "surfer dudes had raided their parents' closet," highlights Nahmias's ability to blend disparate styles harmoniously. Additionally, chunky knitwear, which Curtis likened to the iconic style of Kurt Cobain, stood out as another prominent feature, showcasing the collection's diverse textural and aesthetic range.
The show also marked the debut of exciting collaborations, signaling Nahmias's expanding presence in the global fashion landscape. A partnership with Puma was announced, featuring three colorways of the Puma Suede slated for a February release, followed by the Puma Speedcat and an accompanying apparel line in April. Furthermore, Nahmias introduced new footwear options, including loafers and boat shoes, alongside a range of accessories and high-end jewelry, notably a distinctive mushroom-shaped pendant. These collaborations and new offerings underscore the brand's versatility and its appeal to a wide array of fashion enthusiasts.
Nahmias's philosophy revolves around creating attire that he and his circle of influential friends, such as Timothée Chalamet, Justin Bieber, and Charles Leclerc, genuinely desire to wear. This pragmatic approach emphasizes clothes that are both stylish and wearable, eschewing fleeting trends in favor of an authentic and enduring aesthetic. The designer's commitment to his vision ensures that, while his style evolves subtly each season, the core essence of his brand – a blend of streetwear sensibility with an elevated touch – remains consistent and compelling.
This season also saw Nahmias delve into the world of animation, collaborating with artist John Massé to develop hand-drawn cartoons inspired by '90s-era animated series. These animated characters, which include a skater, a basketball player, a laid-back surfer, and a French fashion critic on a humorous quest to uncover the "secret sauce" of Californian style, were integrated into the collection, appearing on sweaters, bags, and keychains. This innovative storytelling element not only added a playful dimension to the collection but also extended the brand's narrative into digital spaces through multiple 35-second social media episodes, further engaging Nahmias's audience with his unique take on Californian lifestyle and fashion.
The presentation at the Palais de Tokyo, accompanied by the uplifting strains of The Beach Boys's "Good Vibrations," exuded a sense of Californian optimism, a welcome contrast to the prevailing winter gloom. This thoughtful curation of music and visual elements reinforced the collection's overarching theme of vibrant, effortless style. Nahmias continues to demonstrate a unique ability to capture and reinterpret the spirit of California, making his brand a beacon of individuality and laid-back luxury in the contemporary menswear scene. His journey as an independent designer, though fraught with challenges, is clearly marked by significant achievements and a growing influence.