Oxman's studio has unveiled a novel fabric dyeing approach, "Vigils," which employs a bacterial solution to imbue 3D-knitted silk with distinct color variations. This innovative process stands as a testament to the potential of biological textile coloration as a sustainable and artistic alternative to conventional industrial methods.
The "Vigils" project, conceived by designer Neri Oxman and her team, represents a forward-thinking exploration into material and aesthetic expression. The core of this technique lies in treating Tussah silk threads with "bacterially sensitive chemicals." These chemicals transform the silk into a "bioreactor" when a specific bacterial solution is applied. The solution, containing the BL21 strain of Escherichia coli (E. coli) – a common strain in biotechnology – is precisely sprayed onto the silk fabric.
Once sprayed, the fabric undergoes a 24-hour incubation period. During this time, the bacterial solution interacts with the treated silk, fostering the growth of billions of bacterial cells. As these microorganisms proliferate, they release amino acids, which naturally impart faded indigo and pink pigments to the textile. The distribution and intensity of these colors are intentionally guided by how the designer applies the bacterial culture, allowing for controlled and artistic patterns.
Following the incubation, the fabric is thoroughly washed and dried, effectively removing the bacterial cultures while preserving the intricate and unique pigmentation. This method not only offers a new aesthetic but also investigates a less resource-intensive alternative to traditional dyeing processes, which often consume vast amounts of water and chemicals.
The Oxman studio has demonstrated the versatility of this technique through a collection of four capes. Each cape showcases the subtle yet distinctive color gradients and patterns achieved through bacterial interaction, highlighting the project's capacity to create textiles that are inherently expressive of their biological origins. While currently in the prototype phase and awaiting comprehensive Life Cycle Assessment, "Vigils" marks a significant step towards environmentally conscious design practices. Neri Oxman, renowned for her contributions to material ecology, continues to push the boundaries of design and technology, further exemplified by her recent studio establishment in New York and her conceptual AI-designed skyscraper.