Chopard's recent presentation at Watches and Wonders showcased not only a refreshed L.U.C. 1860 with a new dial color but also an understated yet compelling release: the L.U.C Time Traveler One, reference 168574-3013. This special edition, limited to 250 pieces, commemorates a decade since the Time Traveler One's initial debut in 2016. While the fundamental architecture of this worldtimer remains unchanged, Chopard has consistently explored diverse material and color combinations, enriching the model's history.
This particular iteration distinguishes itself within the L.U.C family through its unique blend of matte grey, green, and yellow accents. Its less formal, somewhat robust appearance contrasts sharply with the often polished and dressy nature of other L.U.C timepieces. This industrial flair is largely attributed to the entirely matte, sandblasted dark grey ceramicized grade 5 titanium case, measuring 42mm by 12.09mm. Both crowns are crafted from the same material—the one at 2 o'clock adjusts local time and date, while the 4 o'clock crown controls the city disc. Ceramicized titanium, a unique alloy treated at high temperatures to form a natural ceramic layer without additional coatings, is sparingly used by Chopard to achieve this distinct aesthetic. The watch boasts a water resistance of 50 meters.
The dial, a focal point of this timepiece, is densely packed with information for the worldtime display, rendered in an appealing khaki green. The outermost ring features 24 cities on a rotating disc, with bright yellow arrows indicating daylight saving time. Immediately inside this, a 24-hour disc, delineated by black and off-white segments for day and night, synchronizes with the minute and hour hands. The local time is set at the 12 o'clock position, corresponding to the current city adjusted via the 4 o'clock crown. The subsequent ring displays a snailed khaki minutes track, marked with white printing, and features printed and lumed hour markers and numerals at twelve, three, six, and nine. A short, yellow-tipped arrow hand on the innermost ring indicates the date. The center proudly displays “L.U. CHOPARD” and “Chronometer,” signifying its COSC certification. A personal favorite detail is the hands, where Chopard's signature dauphine style is reinterpreted with a striking matte grey finish.
While the dial may initially appear complex and the shorter handset, proportional to the 42mm watch, might seem unusual, legibility quickly improves with familiarity. The eye eventually learns to filter the wealth of information, focusing primarily on the hands and hour markers. On the reverse, a smoked sapphire crystal caseback offers a glimpse of the COSC-certified L.U.C Caliber 01.05-L. This self-winding movement, featuring a full rotor and worldtime functionality, offers a 60-hour power reserve and operates at 28,800 VpH (4 Hz). Although the caliber exhibits appealing striping and polished anglage, the tinted caseback, while intended to complement the case, limits the view compared to a fully transparent or solid alternative. Additionally, unlike many other L.U.C movements, this Time Traveler has not received the Poinçon de Genève certification since its inception.
Despite some minor criticisms, this Time Traveler offers a compelling wrist presence. Its matte, industrial aesthetic harmonizes remarkably well with its instrument-like display, making it a unique offering from a brand renowned for its elegant designs. The 42mm diameter, combined with short lugs, a complex dial, and a lightweight titanium case with a rubber strap, ensures a comfortable wearing experience. Positioned at $20,300, it stands out among other sporty travel watches. While the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic offers greater legibility at a slightly lower price, and the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer provides increased water resistance and a captivating dial, the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One maintains its distinct appeal. Its blend of high-end watchmaking and a casual, robust design makes it an ideal companion for any journey, reflecting a quiet confidence that resonates deeply with the spirit of travel. This piece masterfully combines intricate engineering with a laid-back attitude, making it a significant statement in the world of luxury timepieces.