This week's horological journey unearths a fascinating collection of timepieces, blending historical charm with distinctive design. From a curious Lucien Piccard creation that defies conventional watch functions to an opulent Mappin and Webb dress watch, each piece tells a unique story. We also delve into the pristine condition of an Omega Pre-Ancoretta Admiralty and the understated elegance of a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner E557, offering enthusiasts a glimpse into the diverse world of vintage watch collecting.
As the week draws to a close, a fresh assortment of vintage timepieces emerges for consideration. Following the evaluation of last week's offerings, where a ZRC fetched €6,000, an Omega Ranchero achieved €3,500, and an Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar sold for $14,000, the focus now shifts to a new selection that caters to a variety of tastes and budgets. This week's featured watches are sourced from reputable dealers and are all priced under $5,000, making them accessible options for collectors and enthusiasts.
Among the highlights is an early Heuer 844, notable for its honest wear and a movement that promises straightforward restoration. For those captivated by Omega's distinctive Symbol watches, both men's and women's versions are presented. Additionally, a rare 1979 Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 makes an appearance, offering a unique opportunity for collectors. Beyond these, a beautiful school pocket watch, various Bonhams auction lots including a tropical Excel-O-Graph, an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Miami, and a Patek Philippe Ricochet, along with several Girard Perregaux Sea Hawks and a Heuer Navia dash-timer, round out the eclectic mix.
The Lucien Piccard Telephone watch stands out with its playful design and unconventional functionality. Offered by Matthew Bain, this timepiece, remarkably preserved in new old stock condition, boasts its original packaging. Its 35mm stainless steel case offers a classic wearing experience reminiscent of 1960s steel watches. The watch's most intriguing feature is its rotating bezel, which lists city area codes, serving as a charming anachronism in an era of global connectivity. This unique detail adds a poetic touch to the timepiece, priced at $3,150.
Another intriguing piece is the Mappin and Webb 60806, available from Thillier Time. Mappin and Webb, a brand with a rich heritage dating back centuries, crafted jewelry for royalty. This particular dress watch, though small at 25mm wide, commands attention with its 18k gold construction, adorned with a distinctive curly, ribbon-like pattern. The dial, divided into quadrants with tiger's-eye-like patterns, further enhances its visual flair. Priced at $4,900, it caters to those seeking a watch that prioritizes bold aesthetics over conventional utility, serving as a conversation starter rather than a subtle accessory.
The Omega Pre-Ancoretta Admiralty, ref. 135.042, presents a pristine example of a well-known model. This early version, preceding the introduction of the nautical anchor motif on the dial, is a rare find in such excellent condition. Available from Avocado Vintage Watches for €2,900, it is new old stock with its original caseback glob, blue dial, and an Omega strap and deployant clasp. This timepiece appeals to collectors who appreciate minute historical details and seek untouched examples of vintage watches.
Finally, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner E557 from Sabi Watches represents JLC's early foray into waterproof timepieces. Introduced in 1958, this model, despite not being a typical sports watch, showcases the brand's serious commitment to creating robust watches. This specific Master Mariner features a unique two-tone dial, with brushed and satin finishes that subtly shift under different lighting. Its pristine condition, with sharp bevels and an original signed crown, makes this 34mm watch a remarkable find at €3,900.
This week's collection emphasizes the enduring appeal of vintage watches, highlighting unique designs, impeccable preservation, and historical significance. From the functional quirkiness of the Lucien Piccard Telephone watch to the regal artistry of the Mappin and Webb dress watch, and the untouched originality of the Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces, these timepieces offer not just a way to tell time, but a tangible connection to horological history and craftsmanship.